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Fabio Ciquera Fashion - Art - Design

I am the wind

Art Posted on 04 May, 2011 06:40

Last night I attendee the premiere of I Am The Wind at the Young Vic, a powerful tale of enduring humanity against insurmountable odds. Two lifelong travelling companions are bound together on a journey across a vast ocean, the endless struggle to be human.

I am the Wind is the coming together of three of Europe’s great theatrical talents. France’s Patrice Chéreau directs a new adaptation of Norwegian Jon Fosse’s play about two men in a boat, rewritten by the UK’s Simon Stephens.

Fosse, who won the 2010 Ibsen Award, is one of the most prominent contemporary playwrights in Europe. He has been described as the Beckett of the 21st century and has had his work translated into more than 40 languages. Playwright Simon Stephens has created the English version of I Am The Wind. His previous work includes Punk Rock, Sea Wall, Pornography, Motortown, Harper Regan and On The Shore Of The Wide World, which won the Laurence Olivier Award for Best New Play.

Patrice Chéreau, who directs I Am The Wind, is widely considered France’s leading theatre director and has been an important figure in European theatre since the 1970s. His award-winning films include La Reine Margot, His Brother and Intimacy.

Ex Limbo by Rotor at Fondazione Prada

Art Posted on 26 Apr, 2011 18:24

Prada is currently hosting Ex Limbo, an exhibition by Rotor – a collective of
artists from Brussels, acclaimed for the design of the Belgian
pavilion at the 2010 Venice Architecture Biennale. Tristan Boniver tells me about how
the space of the Fondazione, and its significance as an exhibition space for
art and fashion, inspired them to use the pieces that worked as a back-drop for
the fashion shows in the last decades, all of which came from a warehouse in
southern Milan. Some of the pieces had been reused several times, but talking
with Mrs Prada, the artists realised that these elements were not merely props
for shows but part of a bigger discourse that merges visual art and fashion.
Hence the idea of giving a second lease of life to structures that have
supported Mrs Prada’s creations, but that have never had a life of their own.

Ex Limbo by Rotor April 13 – June 5, 2011

From Tuesday to Thursday, 2-8pm; Friday, Saturday and Sunday 10am-8pm.

Closed Monday

Fondazione Prada, via Fogazzaro 36, Milan


Fashion Posted on 26 Apr, 2011 18:11

When one leaves for a business trip, one
packs the suitcase to impress. but when one leaves for a weekend away, the
attitude is completely different. Just the bare essentials – what makes one
feel comfortable.

Last weekend, I was in Portofino. What
makes this place so special is the difficulty of access. Not on the way to anywhere
except itself, the invisible club that is
Traffic in and out is vetted by carabinieri at a checkpoint on the road from
Santa Margherita. Lunch on the famous Piazzetta is a must and
Ugo offers the best solution: pigato wine and the famous focaccia. The ultimate
luxuries of this place, apart from the incredible scenery, are its food and

When in need of a quiet drink away from the
crowd of the Piazzetta, head to the hotel with the most self-explanatory name
ever: The hotel Splendido. This former convent not only has supreme views over
the gulf, but also offers impeccable service without the stiffness of some five
star establishments. The bar tenders double as skilled entertainers and their
Negroni is top notch too.

One of my earliest memories of Portofino is
walking around its little paths that smell of Mediterranean plants and flowers.
That smell stayed with me for years and it is always a pleasure to return to
it. When Tom Ford brought out its Neroli
I found straight away that the perfume was the closest thing to the
original scents of Portofino. Of course I had to have it. Now the fragrance has
been developed in a range of products, from body oil to scented salts. At first my friends found that
my choice of perfume was a little too coordinated with our trip, but then had
to agree with me: the resemblance is astounding. Now they are all adepts.

The Piazzetta is where everything happens
in Portofino – it is one of the best people watching spots in the world. It is
worth taking a time-out for the classic cappuccino and croissant breakfast
combo whilst looking at people going by. Da Ugo is the best place.

Shopping in Portofino is quite interesting.
There are the usual suspects of luxury brands, but the municipality has
regulated that the village needs basic stores such as greengrocers, bakeries,
cafés and restaurants, thus putting an end to the indiscriminate buy-out of
retail spaces by large luxury multinational groups. Therefore, it is still
possible to find a few independent stores.

I particularly like Gentry Portofino, renowned for its
colourful cashmere jumpers and polo shirts, even before bright colours became a

Cusi, one of Milan’s traditional jewellers, has had a store on
Calata Marconi for many years. Yet the store, in true Portofino style, does not
feel like a traditional jewellery store; there are no guards, nor bells to ring
to gain access. The store is like a bazaar selling incredibly beautiful silver
objects and jewellery displayed in crystal boxes. The store doubles as a Rolex
boutique too.

Doriani (20, Via Roma T+300185-269707) sells the quintessentially
maritime-chic uniform: cashmere jumpers, waterproof sailing jackets, and shoes
– An Institution in Portofino.

One day should be spent in San Fruttuoso. Take
the brave walk, or ride a speedboat that goes from San Fruttuoso every 30
minutes and enjoy the spectacular view.

After its initial monastic use, the complex at San Fruttuoso
was a humble home for fishermen, often a den for pirates, and later it became
the property of the Doria family; a unique place where the work of men
integrates perfectly with nature. The monastic complex of the X-XI century with
the cloisters, the Chapter House and the church can all be visited, as well as
the Doria tower.

In San Fruttuoso there are several little
restaurants, all of which face the little bay. We decided to go to Trattoria La Marina (T +390185-772495). The
restaurant is practically on the beach but the kitchen is on the 4th
floor of one of the ancient buildings. The chef delivers his great dishes in a
basket attached to a rope from the window of the kitchen down to the

A very good tradition in Italy on a warm
afternoon is a Caffé Freddo Shakerato: basically an espresso shaken with ice
cubes and an emulsion of vanilla and sugar syrup that creates an exquisite

But what one really wants to do is to relax
and the best place to do that is Bagni Fiore in Paraggi, a wonderful beach
partly perched on the rocks of a small bay just ten munites walk from the
Piazzetta. Bagni Fiore is famous because every day at 4PM, the staff goes
around offering their guests a glass of prosecco and some little pastries.

Luxury Goods V- The Illusion of Art

Art Posted on 26 Apr, 2011 15:52

Tonight the fifth edition of Luxury Good Art Festival opens at the Courtyard theatre in Hoxton, East London. Each participant has submitted a fifty words sentence on the meaning of illusion of art. Tomorrow evening I will make my own contribution to the festival at the Symposium with a speech on the illusion of art as a luxury good.

Luxury Goods V- The Illusion of Art

Tues 26th- Sat 30th April 2011 7-12pm

The Courtyard Theatre, Hoxton, London, England

40 Pitfield Street N1 6EU


Art Posted on 05 Apr, 2011 12:56

agencies report that the Chinese authorities arrested the artist Ai Weiwei on
Sunday the 3rd of April as he tried to board a plane to Hong Kong.
The artist remains uncontactable and his whereabouts are unknown. The international
community, along with the artist’s community, should not be too timid calling
for Weiwei’s immediate release given the increasing use of detentions against
activists by the Chinese government.

work is currently on display at the Tate Modern, in the Turbine Hall as part of
the Unilever Series.

is made up of millions of small works, each apparently identical,
but actually unique. The life-sized sunflower seed husks are in fact
intricately handcrafted in porcelain. Each seed has been individually
sculpted and painted by specialists working in small-scale workshops in the
Chinese city of Jingdezhen. The seeds are the effort of hundreds of skilled
hands. Poured into the interior of the Turbine Hall’s vast industrial space,
the 100 million seeds form a seemingly infinite landscape.


Oscar Udeshi

Fashion Posted on 29 Mar, 2011 11:34

I have always believed that if no one can
do it as you want it, just do it yourself. Whatever that IT is.

Oscar Udeshi must believe exactly the same:
while working in The City, Oscar was looking for clothes that would make up his
ideal wardrobe. All his clothes were custom-made to his design specifications,
but still far from his idea of perfection. Oscar eventually left finance,
trained under one of the last remaining bespoke shirt makers of Jermyn
and in 1999 undertook to fill the void in traditional tailored
clothing creating UDESHI.

When I met Oscar in his Mayfair store, we
started discussing the idea of perfection in modern tailoring and yet again, we
shared the same ideas. Style is personal – quality is universal. There are just
a few tailors left in London that still see hand-made garments as a conditio
sine qua non of their work. It is refreshing to see that the values of
tailoring are shared by a younger generation.

In the window of the store, there was a
beautifully cut coat Inspired by a prominent 1960s “gentleman”
gangster – if such a thing exists – the collar and lapels covered
in astrakan.

Udeshi is also known for its
Extreme Cutaway Collar shirts, Sweeping back to just before the
yoke. Developed through extensive trials in order to obtain the optimal shape,
comfort and interlining to give the correct stiffness, these shirts are
reproduced each season in a small run of exclusive colour-ways and fabrics,
which are only available for one season.


8 Davies Street

London, W1K 3DW


Elizabeth Taylor – Suddenly Last Summer

Art Posted on 23 Mar, 2011 15:35

ELIZABETH TAYLOR February 27, 1932 – March 23, 2011

With Katharine Hepburn in Suddenly Last Summer, 1959. My favourite movie.

Her final monologue in the movie is a masterpiece, when all the mysteries are revealed.

He-he was lying naked on the broken stones…and this you won’t believe! Nobody, nobody, nobody could believe it! It looked as if-as if they had devouredhim!…As if they’d torn or cut parts of him away with their hands, or with knives, or those jagged tin cans they made music with. As if they’d torn bits of him away in strips!


Fashion Box

Fashion Posted on 22 Mar, 2011 08:33

Antonio Mancinelli’s Fashion
Box takes a look at sixteen classic fashion items as worn by the stars that
made them famous. Often, an iconic garment becomes the epitome of the star that
made it famous, from Audrey Hepburn and the little black dress to Madonna laced
into a pointy bra.

I met Antonio during the last men’s show in Milan and he told me that he
wrote the book to readdress a sort of confusion created by an overload of
imagery, brands and options that is almost endless but not necessarily good.
Laughing, he added that Fashion Box is a great book because there are great
images and little to read albeit incredibly well written.

Antonio Mancinelli is
editor at HMC Marie Claire. He has worked for many
journals, including Vogue Italia, Elle and Vanity


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