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Fabio Ciquera Fashion - Art - Design

The Global Fashion Awards

Fashion Posted on 16 May, 2011 11:53

The Global
Fashion Awards were created by WGSN
in 2010 to recognise and reward those who are pushing the boundaries of fashion
and propelling the industry forward on a global scale. The second annual WGSN Global Fashion Awards open entry
launched on the 4th of April calling for all individuals and businesses working
across the fashion industry around the world. The open entry closes this
Thursday, 19th of May.

This year’s categories
again encompass all major business and creative disciplines in fashion including
design, retail, buying, visual merchandising, store design, marketing and
ethical practice. The WGSN Global
Fashion Awards are the first and only awards that recognise these
achievements on a global scale, hence its relevance on his second year.

The winners will be selected by an expert panel of
judges, made up of some of the most prominent people in the fashion and style
industries, including designers, buying directors, stylists, merchants and
marketing executives. The panel includes Chee Au, Chief Creative Officer, Shanghai Tang, Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz, Creative Directors,
Bally and Averyl Oates, Buying
Director, Harvey Nichols – Menswear, Womenswear and Accessories.

The shortlist will be announced in London on the
evening of the 20th of June at the St Martins Lane Hotel. The winners will be
announced at a ceremony that will take place at the Gotham Hall in New York
City on the 20th of October in front of an audience of fashion’s most
influential industry insiders.


Fashion Posted on 12 May, 2011 14:50

Classic modernism. This is what one associates
with Valextra. The Italian leather Goods house follows the evolution of high-tech
products, this time transforming the
lines of the new smart phone created by Apple, from simple products to symbols
of elegance. The new Valextra iPhone cover does not hide the sleek lines of the
telephone. It adds on in style and functionality, this is the only cover that
allows the use of the many functionalities of the smart phone without sliding off
a sleeve.

The pergamena color, the signature of the house, remains a must and this
is what I use.

Pirjo Niemela

Fashion Posted on 06 May, 2011 12:25

Pirjo Niemela is one of the leading Scandinavian stylists. She has
contributed to major international magazines and brands. Above all, she is one
of my closest friends. Recently we realised that we always talked and chatted
about everything but style.

Your vision as a stylist that you would like to share?

Regarding photo shoots, as an assistant I was
given some very advice: Always start with the most beautiful items; the model
will feel attractive and secure, the photographer is happy and therefore, you
are happy – it is a win-win situation.

Any styling tips?

Always use good quality with great cut. Find a tailor that will help to
alter the clothes. Buy one key piece with excellent quality per season, rather
than buying less expensive, poorer quality pieces all the time. I always buy
one cashmere jumper every autumn and to date, I have a very useful collection
of warm, comfortable and beautiful jumpers that will last a lifetime with the
right care. I even keep them in the freezer to get rid of moths and carpet
beetles, HUH!

Who are the best dressed people according to Pirjo? ?

Sam Taylor Wood and Aaron johnson. They are
always dressed in a charming mixture of personal style, pattern, colour,
material, brands both high end and high street. They succeed in the difficult
and highly envied fashion part where everything works together effortlessly. And
you, of course!

What is good fashion?

Someone once said, ”Don´t act, let the wardrobe do the acting…”
Sometimes it applies as a statement of truly great fashion and at other times,
it applies as a mockery of really bad trends.

Any thoughts on designing
your own clothing range?

I am still dreaming of finding a stylish AND warm winter coat, which is
impossible to find. I have searched for it all my life, and it is so
disappointing not to have found it. It has to be achievable, or I have to do it
myself, don’t I? (Pirjo laughs)

So what pieces would you buy

The parka from Acne in Duvet! I cannot think about anything else that I
would like this autumn. If I were threatened at gunpoint, I would buy one
Hermes scarf that I have seen at NK in amazing colours.

Any must have items in your

I have a few Margiela, Demeulemeester and Branquinho etc., which I
bought between 1994-1995. They still work perfectly today and have become the
classics in my wardrobe.

Any clothes you regret you bought?

Actually, I don’t regret anything. Sure, I
have bought many pieces that were fashion mistakes, but nothing that feels
traumatic. I do regret things that I did not buy. Or actually, one regret of
mine was when I was in London one time and all of a sudden that little DKNY
sport/ski sock cost 6.50SEK, not in Sterling. Of course, I bought a lot of
them, for several thousands. Jesus! I still can’t believe how
this happened, and spending it on sport/ski socks? (The currency exchange for
the pound was 15SEK at the time!)

Who would you exchange your wardrobe with?

Some XS – Extra Small super duper rich
fashionista, preferably French.

Do you have a role model?

No, no one in particular. I find inspiration and energy from many
people, especially from people that have successfully made their outfit look
natural and effortless.

Something that you would not wear?

Bad logos and uncomfortable clothes.

Any bad fashion habits?

Actually no. I buy very little clothing for
myself; I really like my troopers in my wardrobe.

What fictional character has the greatest clothes?

Daniel Day Lewis in Gangs of New York crosses my mind right now, or actually the whole
movie. And Mia Farrow in Rosemary’s Baby.

What do you like the most
about you?

I do not need any make-up.

What is your motto?

Don’t worry, be sexy!


Fashion Posted on 04 May, 2011 10:43

Thinking of eco-friendly does
not really bring to mind something particularly stylish. But Jasmine Zanacco,
creates the best shoes using eco-friendly luxury materials and limiting manufacturing
exclusively to support local craftsmen from Italy. The result? Impeccable
quality and sustainability. At the heart of the Zanacco brand is the conviction
that in this time and age luxury needs to substantiate an authentic focus on
the social conscience of the global consumer. Looking beyond eco-luxury,
Zanacco shoes are handmade by time-honoured craftsmen from Vigevano – the Italian capital of shoe
manufacturing – only using products sourced from the region. Jasmine Zanacco is
reintroducing the true art of shoe making, offering classic shoes, boots and
sneakers that are 100% Italian made,
in every single element.

What particularly caught my eye were Zanacco’s Sneakers, a cut above from the sea of smart
trainers that we see on a daily basis. The designs and the materials set the
difference. Jasmine tells me about her passion of supporting her home
town and how she feels distraught she sees local businesses going out of
business because it becomes too difficult to compete with larger mass
production manufacturers for so-called luxury goods in countries elsewhere.

The Zanacco collection is available at Wolf&Badger in Lebdury Road, London W11.


Fashion Posted on 26 Apr, 2011 18:11

When one leaves for a business trip, one
packs the suitcase to impress. but when one leaves for a weekend away, the
attitude is completely different. Just the bare essentials – what makes one
feel comfortable.

Last weekend, I was in Portofino. What
makes this place so special is the difficulty of access. Not on the way to anywhere
except itself, the invisible club that is
Traffic in and out is vetted by carabinieri at a checkpoint on the road from
Santa Margherita. Lunch on the famous Piazzetta is a must and
Ugo offers the best solution: pigato wine and the famous focaccia. The ultimate
luxuries of this place, apart from the incredible scenery, are its food and

When in need of a quiet drink away from the
crowd of the Piazzetta, head to the hotel with the most self-explanatory name
ever: The hotel Splendido. This former convent not only has supreme views over
the gulf, but also offers impeccable service without the stiffness of some five
star establishments. The bar tenders double as skilled entertainers and their
Negroni is top notch too.

One of my earliest memories of Portofino is
walking around its little paths that smell of Mediterranean plants and flowers.
That smell stayed with me for years and it is always a pleasure to return to
it. When Tom Ford brought out its Neroli
I found straight away that the perfume was the closest thing to the
original scents of Portofino. Of course I had to have it. Now the fragrance has
been developed in a range of products, from body oil to scented salts. At first my friends found that
my choice of perfume was a little too coordinated with our trip, but then had
to agree with me: the resemblance is astounding. Now they are all adepts.

The Piazzetta is where everything happens
in Portofino – it is one of the best people watching spots in the world. It is
worth taking a time-out for the classic cappuccino and croissant breakfast
combo whilst looking at people going by. Da Ugo is the best place.

Shopping in Portofino is quite interesting.
There are the usual suspects of luxury brands, but the municipality has
regulated that the village needs basic stores such as greengrocers, bakeries,
cafés and restaurants, thus putting an end to the indiscriminate buy-out of
retail spaces by large luxury multinational groups. Therefore, it is still
possible to find a few independent stores.

I particularly like Gentry Portofino, renowned for its
colourful cashmere jumpers and polo shirts, even before bright colours became a

Cusi, one of Milan’s traditional jewellers, has had a store on
Calata Marconi for many years. Yet the store, in true Portofino style, does not
feel like a traditional jewellery store; there are no guards, nor bells to ring
to gain access. The store is like a bazaar selling incredibly beautiful silver
objects and jewellery displayed in crystal boxes. The store doubles as a Rolex
boutique too.

Doriani (20, Via Roma T+300185-269707) sells the quintessentially
maritime-chic uniform: cashmere jumpers, waterproof sailing jackets, and shoes
– An Institution in Portofino.

One day should be spent in San Fruttuoso. Take
the brave walk, or ride a speedboat that goes from San Fruttuoso every 30
minutes and enjoy the spectacular view.

After its initial monastic use, the complex at San Fruttuoso
was a humble home for fishermen, often a den for pirates, and later it became
the property of the Doria family; a unique place where the work of men
integrates perfectly with nature. The monastic complex of the X-XI century with
the cloisters, the Chapter House and the church can all be visited, as well as
the Doria tower.

In San Fruttuoso there are several little
restaurants, all of which face the little bay. We decided to go to Trattoria La Marina (T +390185-772495). The
restaurant is practically on the beach but the kitchen is on the 4th
floor of one of the ancient buildings. The chef delivers his great dishes in a
basket attached to a rope from the window of the kitchen down to the

A very good tradition in Italy on a warm
afternoon is a Caffé Freddo Shakerato: basically an espresso shaken with ice
cubes and an emulsion of vanilla and sugar syrup that creates an exquisite

But what one really wants to do is to relax
and the best place to do that is Bagni Fiore in Paraggi, a wonderful beach
partly perched on the rocks of a small bay just ten munites walk from the
Piazzetta. Bagni Fiore is famous because every day at 4PM, the staff goes
around offering their guests a glass of prosecco and some little pastries.

Oscar Udeshi

Fashion Posted on 29 Mar, 2011 11:34

I have always believed that if no one can
do it as you want it, just do it yourself. Whatever that IT is.

Oscar Udeshi must believe exactly the same:
while working in The City, Oscar was looking for clothes that would make up his
ideal wardrobe. All his clothes were custom-made to his design specifications,
but still far from his idea of perfection. Oscar eventually left finance,
trained under one of the last remaining bespoke shirt makers of Jermyn
and in 1999 undertook to fill the void in traditional tailored
clothing creating UDESHI.

When I met Oscar in his Mayfair store, we
started discussing the idea of perfection in modern tailoring and yet again, we
shared the same ideas. Style is personal – quality is universal. There are just
a few tailors left in London that still see hand-made garments as a conditio
sine qua non of their work. It is refreshing to see that the values of
tailoring are shared by a younger generation.

In the window of the store, there was a
beautifully cut coat Inspired by a prominent 1960s “gentleman”
gangster – if such a thing exists – the collar and lapels covered
in astrakan.

Udeshi is also known for its
Extreme Cutaway Collar shirts, Sweeping back to just before the
yoke. Developed through extensive trials in order to obtain the optimal shape,
comfort and interlining to give the correct stiffness, these shirts are
reproduced each season in a small run of exclusive colour-ways and fabrics,
which are only available for one season.


8 Davies Street

London, W1K 3DW


Fashion Box

Fashion Posted on 22 Mar, 2011 08:33

Antonio Mancinelli’s Fashion
Box takes a look at sixteen classic fashion items as worn by the stars that
made them famous. Often, an iconic garment becomes the epitome of the star that
made it famous, from Audrey Hepburn and the little black dress to Madonna laced
into a pointy bra.

I met Antonio during the last men’s show in Milan and he told me that he
wrote the book to readdress a sort of confusion created by an overload of
imagery, brands and options that is almost endless but not necessarily good.
Laughing, he added that Fashion Box is a great book because there are great
images and little to read albeit incredibly well written.

Antonio Mancinelli is
editor at HMC Marie Claire. He has worked for many
journals, including Vogue Italia, Elle and Vanity


Beatrix Ong/Balance

Fashion Posted on 21 Mar, 2011 09:27

The world of Beatrix Ong seems made of a
peaceful balance between creativity and sound design. A balance between trends
and timelessness, art and collaborations.

I met Beatrix at her Pavilion Road store
and we started discussing balance as the fil rouge that defined her career. From
her first steps at Jimmy Choo, where she had a great responsibility, becoming
the creative Director of Couture at 22, to founding her eponymous company in
2002. Balance helped Beatrix to
focus and to be true to her vision, her gut feelings on the next step to take
at admittedly a young age to run a company. And balance helped her to succeed.
Balance in designing accessories that reflect many shapes without opulence of

We also talked about what luxury is these days; the balance
between product and service as the ultimate experience for a client who is
looking for a lifestyle choice more than a mere pair of shoes. Hence Beatrix’s
diverse collaborations with Natasha Law and Neal Murran, who both created exclusive designs for the
shoe boxes of Nike, via Aquascutum and the Dover Street Market. All of these
collaborations are meant to express versatility, Beatrix tells me, without
compromising the integrity of her vision, showcasing her different facets and

Beatrix latest creation is a range of sunglasses that will
be available in two styles this spring. I asked why only two styles and Beatrix’s
reply is direct: no compromises with trends because her vision for the range
was the luxury of simplicity.


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